Capriccio Café

When you find yourself drawn time and time again to the same restaurant with the absence of duress and the threat of boredom fails to rear its ugly head, this should stimulate the "Ah-ha!" moment that nearly topples you over with joy. I experience this feeling each time I visit — even when my intended destination was elsewhere.

Having dined in cafés lining the sultry canals of Venice, in tiny eateries mere steps from the Ponte Vecchio in Florence and quaint bistros in nondescript tiny villages in the heart of Italy’s Campestri countryside, Capriccio Café has never failed to return my spirit and memory to that legendary boot-shaped country. If it were only about the ambience — where the perfect mood and vibe flows throughout the tiny rooms — that would be enough reason to venture to Capriccio. But it goes so far beyond that.

Good food is easy to come by. Food that is truly palate pleasing is a joy unto itself. And that is exactly what Capriccio offers: cuisine to make your mouth happy.

On a mid-week midday sojourn, I sought refuge from the chill of the day in Capriccio’s small dining area. Actually, there are two dining rooms separated by the building’s foyer/walkway, but that was hardly a deterrent.

The precursor to the meal was a complimentary basket of fresh baked bread with olive oil. Honestly, the tiny cubes of herb-topped focaccia bread were appetizing enough to eat solo.

Next was the start to the real deal meal, which began with a bowl of Butternut Squash Soup ($5), which was one of the specials of the day. Oh, how I wish they would just call it what it is: Bisque. Rich, thick, creamy and hot, it had that stick-to-your-ribs quality that is perfect to stifle the wrath of winter. The velvety smoothness was topped with croutons and roasted pumpkin seeds, which was a surprising, but delightful complement that added an element of texture.

A new addition to the antipasti lineup was the crab cakes served with mango salsa and spicy aioli ($12) draped on a tiny field of greens. Although the crabmeat was a little overworked, rendering the cake a touch mushier on the inside than necessary, the flavors jostling around inside my mouth were all vying for my attention. There was a hint of lushness without a fussy feel. The sweet mango salsa coupled with the slightly piquant aioli created an interesting mélange that complemented one another in a peculiar, yet pleasing manner.

The meal was rounded out, literally, with a Bianca pizza ($7.50), a delicious thin crust white cheese pie with mozzarella, ricotta and garlic, to which I added spinach and grilled chicken (at an additional charge). The wonderful aroma greeted me even before the pizza reached the table. And when it did, it was an object of beauty. Golden pockets of baked mozzarella were surrounded by tiny mounds of ricotta, spinach and chicken. On any given day, my proclivities lean more towards a smothered-and-covered pizza with a thick crust, but biting down on the buttery thin crust brought a smile to my face. Pizza has that transformative quality.

Capriccio is no one-hit-dish-wonder. From the Mia Salad ($11.50), a light and delicate fusion of sun dried tomatoes, portobello mushrooms and grilled chicken sautéed in shallots with balsamic sauce heated through with mixed greens, to the hearty Panini ($6.50-8.75)—there are many to choose from, with my favorite being the Materano with grilled chicken, provolone, arugula and roasted peppers—to mouthwatering pasta dishes, Capriccio lifts you from the familiar confines of Stamford and transports you to Italy. And chances are, when you return, you’ll be licking your lips and begging for more.

Capriccio Café
189 Bedford Street
Stamford, CT 06902
(203) 356-9819
http://www.capriccio-cafe.com/